Day 3
Just a short train ride from Yokohama, Kamakura is a historic city famous for its samurai heritage, Zen temples, and stunning coastal views. Once the political center of Japan during the Kamakura Shogunate (1185-1333), the city is home to one of Japan’s most famous landmarks—the Great Buddha (Daibutsu), a massive 13.35-meter-tall bronze statue that has stood for centuries. Kamakura’s Tsurugaoka Hachimangu Shrine, dedicated to the samurai gods, offers a glimpse into Japan’s warrior past, while Hasedera Temple provides breathtaking views of the coastline, especially during hydrangea season in June.
Kamakura offers beautiful hiking trails that lead to hidden shrines and temples, such as the Tenen Hiking Trail, which connects to Zeniarai Benten, a shrine where visitors wash their money in sacred spring water for good luck. One of the ways we love to get there is to hike there. It wakes you up, gets you over your jet lag, and gets you out in the country in a way that most tourists don't explore. It's also a way to try out some roller slides. You can also go to Kamakura by train, or just spend the day doing stuff in Yokohama. There is ample to do and to see, just depends on what you feel like doing.
KAMAKURA CHOOSE YOUR OWN ADVENTURE
HIKING TO KAMAKURA
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TRAIN TO KAMAKURA
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TRAINS IN JAPAN
Regular trains (普通列車, ふつうれっしゃ): stop at every station and are the slowest but most affordable option, commonly used for local commuting.
Express trains (急行, きゅうこう): skip some smaller stations, making them faster than regular trains but still relatively budget-friendly.
Limited Express trains (特急, とっきゅう): stop only at major stations, offer reserved seating, and are significantly faster, often requiring an additional limited express fee.
Shinkansen (新幹線, しんかんせん): or bullet trains, are Japan’s fastest trains, reaching speeds up to 320 km/h (200 mph) and connecting major cities efficiently with reserved and non-reserved seating.
HIKE TO KAMAKURA
To hike to Kamakura, head back to Yokohama train station. Then, take the Kekyu Main Line Limited Express Misakiguchi 2 stops to Kanazawa Bunko (The Keikyu line is different from the JR lines and has its own entrance area inside the station).
Once you arrive in Misakigushi, go to the Natsuyama Sakaue bus stop (Kanazawa-Bunko Eki Nishiguchi), and take the bus bound for Natsuyama Sakaue. Usually bus 1, 9, or 21. You are headed to the zoo or Kanazawa Nature Park, so you can follow those signs as well.
Bonus Tip: If you are planning on going on the Roller Slide at the park, best to buy a plastic handled seat at the store by the train station. If not, you can always try to bump one off any kids that area there. They sell them at the store in the park, but it doesn't open until later, and it's best to get to the hike early in the morning so you can have lunch in Kamakura.
Helpful Phrase:
🚌 このバスは金沢自然公園 (かなざわしぜんこうえん) に行きますか？教えてください。
(このバスは かなざわしぜんこうえん に いきますか？おしえてください。)
(Kono basu wa Kanazawa Shizen Kōen ni ikimasu ka? Oshiete kudasai.)
“Does this bus go to Kanazawa Nature Park? Please let me know.”
(このバスは かなざわしぜんこうえん に いきますか？おしえてください。)
(Kono basu wa Kanazawa Shizen Kōen ni ikimasu ka? Oshiete kudasai.)
“Does this bus go to Kanazawa Nature Park? Please let me know.”
The Bus Stop Outside the train station to the nature park
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Sacred Melon Bread
Jizo Bosatsu: guardian diety of children, travelers, and souls of the deceased. The red is to ward of evil spirits and illness.
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Once you get to the park, if you have little kids or medium kids or adult kids, it's fun to play on the Ninja warrior style playground and of course go down the roller slide. All parks in Japan seemed designed to prepare children to commandeer a ship, so they are always a good time.
View of the Playground from above
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Learning to seize a ship
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Roller Slide through the Trees
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A long fun Rollerslide near Yokohama
STARTING THE HIKE
Once you are done fiddling around on the roller slides and the park, the hike to Kamakura starts out the back of the park. You just follow the trail around the back of the zoo. If you are going up, you are probably going the right way. The goal is to cross out of the park and across the highway.
Once you are done fiddling around on the roller slides and the park, the hike to Kamakura starts out the back of the park. You just follow the trail around the back of the zoo. If you are going up, you are probably going the right way. The goal is to cross out of the park and across the highway.
When in doubt, follow the signs to KAMAKURA TEN-EN
The freeway (actually a toll road)
Trail Map
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The bridge over the frewway
Signs along the trail ... follow the Kamakura Ten-en signs.
View toward Kamakura and the ocean
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As you hike from the Kanazawa Zoological Gardens, you will hike past Omaruyama, see a cemetery off to the right by the Yokohama Observation Forest, hike past Mt. Ohira, then pass by Kamakura Country Club of to your right. You will follow the trail to the 108 Tomb Caves and Juoh Rock.
You will then come to a sign that points to Kencho-ji, a Zen temple. We typically will head down the trail here that leads to Hansobo Shrine and then down into Kencho-ji. You will need money to pay for passage but it is well worth it to take in these temples and shrines on your way into Kamakura.
You will then come to a sign that points to Kencho-ji, a Zen temple. We typically will head down the trail here that leads to Hansobo Shrine and then down into Kencho-ji. You will need money to pay for passage but it is well worth it to take in these temples and shrines on your way into Kamakura.
Trail to Kencho-ji Temple
View down into the temple complex
Bamboo Forests
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There are some steep sections and lots of stairs on these trails
Temple Complex
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Usually by this time, we are ready to eat! Time to head toward Komachi Street (the main tourist street through Kamakura) for some much needed food.
KAMAKURA UDON
Typical Korokke stall
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Miyoshi Udon
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Cold Udon
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Japan, 〒248-0005 Kanagawa, Kamakura, Yukinoshita, 1 Chome−5−38 こもれび禄岸 1階
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There are endless places to eat in Kamakura, and if you are famished, there is no end to street stalls selling all kinds of tasty stuff. Our personal favorite are Japanese Croquettes (Korokke) お母さんのコロッケ. After lunch, and after visiting some other sites, we typically get some sweet potato ice-cream. さつまいも (Satsuma-imo) アイスクリーム (Aisu Kurimu). It's purple and delicious.
There are some great ramen places in Kamakura, but our favorite place to eat is an udon shop off of Komachi street called Miyoshi. It's tucked up a little alley way with some other restaurants, so it can be easy to miss. The udon is excellent (either hot or cold) and the tempura very good as well. They only take cash, so make sure you have enough yen in your pocket. It's well worth the wait after a long hike to Kamakura.
There are some great ramen places in Kamakura, but our favorite place to eat is an udon shop off of Komachi street called Miyoshi. It's tucked up a little alley way with some other restaurants, so it can be easy to miss. The udon is excellent (either hot or cold) and the tempura very good as well. They only take cash, so make sure you have enough yen in your pocket. It's well worth the wait after a long hike to Kamakura.
SITES TO SEE IN KAMAKURA
Kamakura is riddled with temples, shrines, street food, and shopping. My general feeling is to see a shrine or two, a temple or two, get some ice cream and then head back to Yokohama and do something else there in the evening. If you took the train here, you have more time, you can follow the Big Buddha hiking trail which is about 3 km.
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Daibutsu (大仏) Great Buddha
The Great Buddha of Kamakura is located in Kōtoku-in. It is one of the most famous icons of Japan. It is a large bronze statue that is over 43 feet tall and was built around 1252 AD during the Kamakura period. Since it is hollow, you can go inside. You can also see the giant sandals and hoards of tourists milling about. |
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Komachi Street
Komachi street has endless shopping, treats, and touristy things to buy. There are several side streets that parallel it, which are often less crowded and have fun stores as well. It can get super crowded, packed with people, but it is crowded for a reason. |
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Hachimangu Shrine
Tsurugaoka Hachimangu (鶴岡八幡宮, Tsurugaoka Hachimangū) has a lot of tori gates leading up to it which makes for a pretty walk. Founded by Minamoto Yoritomo, it is Kamakura's most important shrine. I have always found good yakitori vendors on the way up to its entrance, so you know why I like it. |
TRAIN BACK TO YOKOHAMA
Since we always seem done by the time we see The Great Buddha, we take the electric train back to the main station. The Enoden Electric Railway train is small, super old fashioned, and often stuffed to the brim with people. On a hot day, it can be miserable. Just be prepared. It is super cute, and worthy of a good picture, but it is slow. Once you get back to the main station, life gets better, but often it is is still super crowded. Once you get back to Yokohama, there is more breathing room.
YOKOHAMA THINGS TO DO
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A pedestrian plaza that cuts across the water from the Nippon Maru park to Unga park. It's a great place to walk and get fabulous views of the Landmark Tower, Cosmo Clock Ferris Wheel, and Yokohama. Great way to walk back from the Red Brick Warehouse after dinner or just stroll along. |
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A fun place to shop, eat, or just walk around. It gets you out and about Yokohama. You can stop at World Porters on the way, or just wander over here. We are partial to eating at Bills and getting the pancakes. They are super tasty and heavy and makes it easier to fall asleep after a long day of traveling. |
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We're partial to just looking at the Ferris Wheel, but riding it is super fun and gets you amazing views of the city at night as well as Landmark tower. If you are not too tired, then going to Cosmo World and getting a ride can be pretty fun. |
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Minato Mirai
If it's early in the evening, you can always head to Landmark Tower and enjoy views from Japan's second largest building. There are many sky cafes and restaurants that boast views as well where you can grab a bite and get a night view. Queen's square is right next to the metro and great place to shop and eat. Landmark Plaza likewise has all kinds of food and shopping as well. No shortage of places to eat around here. |
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Yokohama Chinatwon
It always seems strange to me going to Japan and then going to Chinatown. Why not just go to China? Well, this is the largest Chinatown in Japan so it's pretty cool. There are something like 600 shops stuffed into this little area of Yokohama. If you fancy Chinese food for dinner, this is the place to go. Just wonder around and get lost in the maze of lanterns, alleyways, and endless food. |
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Motomachi Street
A street dedicated to shopping on the south side of Yokohama. There are some decent restaurants in this area as well, but mostly this is the place to go for some shopping fun. Personally, I think there are better streets to get your shop on in Tokyo, but it's a pretty place to stroll down. |
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Cup Noodles Museum
If you are really into processed Ramen, then this is interesting to see. Not the most engaging place I have ever been, but you do get to make your own cup of noodles. The history behind this ubiquitous food is pretty interesting and my kids did enjoy getting aprons on and making noodles. |
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Anpanman Children's Museum
If you have little kids, anpan museum may be for you. There is a lot to love about a superhero whose face is made out of sweet bread. Granted, anpan man is a big deal in Japan, it is not as well known in the United States. However, it is a place where Japan's kitschiness is on full display. |
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