Tokyo

Tokyo is the largest city in the world with over 37 million people pulsing through its streets, trains, metros, and roads like little blood cells keeping the city breathing and moving. It's hard to take in. There's no way to see it all or eat at every possible place. I divided it up by the major neighborhoods that are worth a visit.  You can mix and match what sounds interesting. Spend time researching what to see and do in each area. You could spend a week in each place and not see it all, eat at every worthwhile restaurant, party at every club, or go to all the shopping, It's a world unto itself. 

My only two rules for being a tourist in Tokyo: 
#1 - Don't ride the street carts around Shibuya. Everyone hates you.  
#2 - Wander down random streets and explore. Allow time to just enjoy being part of the mass of humanity that is Tokyo. 
Food, Food, Food!

Eat your way around Tokyo

​I was talking with a friend once, and the consensus was that Japan has the best overall food in the world.  You really can find anything you want (except Mexican food). I've had some of the best French food, Italian, American, Indian, Chinese, and of course, Japanese. It's just fun to eat in Japan. Since you're walking so much, you won't gain that much weight...right Emma?

Melon Pan

I like all things Melon in Japan...soda, candy, and of course the bread. 
Pomelo Candy

Some 7-11 stores carry it now, but it used to only be found in train station stalls. Probably why I have so many cavities now.
Tamagoyaki

If you go to Tsukiji, eat it on a stick, right off the pan (It's not a stick of butter, it's delicious weirdly baked egg)
Katsu Curry

One of my favorite comfort foods in Japan. It must be eaten!
Kaiten-zushi

Conveyor belt sushi - it's so good, and it keeps coming!
Ramen

Ramen must be eaten at least once. Purchased in the little ticket machine in the restaurant that seats 3 people but has 7 actively slupring
Mcdonalds

I still can't say the name in Japanese...but the egg McMuffin on a steamed bun or the Shrimp burger keeps me trying.
Street meat!

Grab a few sticks and go! Yakitori never tasted so good.
Shibuya - Harajuku - Omotesando - Yoyogi
How to break up the day:

Morning: Yoyogi Park / Meiji Jingu
Afternoon: Ometesando / Harajuku
Evening: Shibuya
Yoyogi Park

It's crazy that Yoyogi is in Shibuya. A natural oasis in a see of concrete.  Great for a morning run, or grab some food and have a picnic. Rent a bike and loop the park's paths for an hour. My favorite is to walk through the park and then head to Meiji Jingu Shrine. Plus, it's free. How marvelous. 
Meiji Jingu

Meiji Jingu is Tokyo's most important serene Shinto shrine. Dedicated to Emperor Meiji and Empress Shoken. There are about 100,000 trees, planted by hand in 1920, transports your from the city. The massive Torii gate is must see. Write a wish on an ema...wooden prayer tablet - and hang it with thousands of other wishes. Marvel at the sake barrel wall. Such a contrast from Harajuku's cosplay insanity. 
Harajuku
Harajuku is a weird place. Full of crepes, cotton candy, wacky potato chips, and funky clothing stores. Takeshita street is the main drag, but it's not my favorite. However, if you want to just float through a sea of humans while trying to find a weird store, then have at it. Harakjuku is a reminder that the prim and proper Japanese people have a weird streak running through them. The best thing are the side streets between Harajuku and Ometasando (called Cat street locally), the best boutiques are really here, not on the main drag.
Omotesando

Often said to be Tokyo's most architecturally sophisticated neighborhood, it's a little quieter than Harajuku (by leaps and bounds). It's worth seeing Omotesando Hills, Prada Aoyama, Tod's building, and Dior Omotesando. The Nezu museum is pretty legit (a hidden gem for sure), the food products in the basement of Omotesando Hills are fun, and the Spiral building has a good cafe.  I prefer this area to Harajuku, because it's a little less over run. If you go, don't miss Kiddy Land, Aesop, Comme Des Garcons...and if you dare, go to Maisen, the most famous Tonkatsu restaurant in Tokyo.
Shibuya

Shibuya is just a thing to behold. Neon psychosis meets people, meets shopping. This is where my wife grew up. I love wandering the side streets with its infinite stores. Go to Starbucks, get a drink, and watch the crossing from the window. It's mesmerizing. There is endless stuff to see and eat here. Just soak it in.
Shibuya Sky

Made to take money from tourists, it's really worth it in the end. Make sure to make a reservation, but on a nice night, the rooftop is just so much fun. We had a great time just sitting on benches and looking int the vast endlessness of Tokyo. It's worth every penny. 
Shibuya / Ometesando / Harakjuku Food recs

Shibuya
  • Ichiran Ramen — solo ramen booth experience, tonkatsu broth, customize everything, open late. A must-do ritual.
  • Uobei Sushi — tablet ordering, food delivered by Shinkansen-style rail to your seat, absurdly fun, great value
  • Diner (ダイナー) — American-style diner done with Japanese precision, legendary burgers, very Shibuya
  • Nantsuttei — rich concentrated tonkotsu ramen, local favorite, not tourist-facing
  • Shibuya Hikarie food floors — department store with exceptional basement food hall and restaurant floors above
Omotesando
  • Maisen (まい泉) — the tonkatsu benchmark. Converted bathhouse, hire katsu sandwich is legendary, in a beautiful garden alley off the main street. Don't skip this.
  • Omotesando Koffee — minimalist perfect espresso in a converted wooden machiya house. Tiny, beautiful, exceptional.
  • Tortoise — relaxed café, excellent coffee, good food, nice garden seating
  • Anniversaire Café — outdoor terrace on the main boulevard, great people watching over coffee or wine
  • Higashiya Ginza Omotesando location — beautiful traditional wagashi and matcha, more of an experience than a meal
Harajuku
  • Harajuku Crepes — Marion Crepes on Takeshita Street is the classic. Sweet or savory, eaten walking. Touristy and delicious.
  • Kyushu Jangara Ramen — rich hakata-style ramen, Harajuku institution, always a queue worth joining
  • Sakura-tei (さくら亭) — DIY okonomiyaki (savory pancake you cook yourself at the table), fun, filling, very casual
  • Farmer's Market at UNU — Sunday market at the United Nations University plaza between Harajuku and Omotesando, incredible local produce, prepared foods, worth timing your visit around
Don't Forget — Convenience Store Breakfast: Any 7-Eleven between Harajuku and Omotesando — egg salad sandwich on milk bread, onigiri, hot coffee from the machine. Walk and eat under the zelkova trees. Genuinely one of the best breakfasts in Tokyo.

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